![]() There are 4 common different types of chemicals used in coolants to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion, or reactions between the salts in the water and the alloys/steels in the engine. Google "+silicate +coolant" and decide for yourself.Long answer.(deep breath). In the end, it's your car and if it breaks, it's your problem. You guys do whatever the hell you you want. I'll do my own research and come to my own conclusion. If you guys are willing to take someone on the internet's word for something, that's fine. But like I said before, I've spent way too much money on my car to not shell out the extra $7 for a gallon of Toyota red. Can you mix them, have some gel form and clog your radiator resulting in a BHG? Maybe. Can you mix them and have your car run fine? Maybe. Lets just say I was wrong about everything else, but my statement of "you *should not* be mixing the two coolant types" is still correct. have you specifically tested and found out that Toyota red has no silicates, or are you just taking PMs word for it." So I post what the back of the Toyota coolant bottle says, then you continue to nitpick.įine. From your previous post "My last question. I don't know why you're trying so hard to pick apart my posts. I'd say the wear difference ( i.e, coolant with silicates, coolant w/o ) is minimal. but given my past experience with Toyota and power steering pumps and racks and fluid types ( ). Silicates and internal seal wear I can see to an extent. Yeah, I probably should have said "causes components to wear faster". So, the answer is unless still pretty much no, you should not mix green/yellow coolants with Toyota red because most green/yellow coolants have silicates and Toyota red doesn't.īefore you were saying it was silicates that caused aluminum to corrode wear. don't bother re-torqueing your head bolts. If you want to use what Toyota engineers picked for our car. When I say you, I mean car owner, not you Robbman in particular. It's your car, so you should decide what you want to do. I even stated there were two camps and which one I was in. Yes, but I said it comes down to silicates vs. We've made many advances in automobile engineering in the last two decades. Note: I'm not saying that you *have* to go OEM. If you bought parts only from the dealer, then those parts will be compatible with your car and your car will run fine on them. But, when they test their cars, they used NGK/ND plugs, Toyota coolant/filter/oil/whatever. mainly becuase you never know what company your manufacturer is going to sign a deal with, nor if that company has seriously changed the chemical composistion of thier product. They know what they're doing.Īs a former automotive industry employee, I can assure you that engineers have no idea what type of coolant, oil, lubricants etc, are going to be used in any component they design ( there's a reason we have standards ). No, but their cars (for the most part) are known to last. and they are not the divine gods many people believe they are. Toyota engineers designed the car in 1984-85. DC states not to use it in thier older cars. Other OAT coolants that are similar in chemical make-up include Preston 5/150 and Zerex G-05ĭiamler-Chrysler uses orange coolant, it's also the organic acid type, with different additives. there are quite a few class-action lawsuits against GM and Penray in the works. ![]() Personally, I wouldn't touch the stuff at all. However, it's the sebacic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid and tolyltriazole in Dex-cool that can cause problems when mized with other coolants ( not the ethylene glycol in them, but the chemical additives ). propylene glycol is also clear.)ĭex-cool is an ethylene glycol based anti-freeze.and it 'supposedly' can be used with etylene and proplyene gycol coolants. You can mix ethylene glycol and propylene glycol ( the non-toxic antifreeze. ![]() Bingo! Finally an answer that isn't full of something.Įthylene glycol is clear.
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